The smallest routine that actually works

Four steps, two of them optional. Everything else is refinement, and refinement before the basics is money spent on nothing.

The smallest routine that actually works

A shelf of twelve bottles is usually a sign that none of them was given long enough to work. Here is what a routine needs before it needs anything else.

1. Cleanse, in the evening

Once a day is enough for most skin; twice if it is oily or you wear sunscreen and make-up, which you should. Choose by how your skin feels five minutes afterwards — tight means the cleanser is too harsh, whatever the label promised.

2. Moisturise

Not to add water so much as to stop it leaving. Oily skin needs this as much as dry skin does; what changes is the texture, not whether you do it.

3. Sunscreen, every morning

The one step with the most evidence behind it and the one most often skipped. If you only ever do two things, make them cleansing and this.

4. One active, chosen for one problem

Vitamin C for dullness. Retinol for lines and texture. Salicylic acid for congestion. Niacinamide for redness and oil. One. Give it three months before you judge it — skin renews on its own schedule and no serum hurries it.

What to leave until later

Essences, mists, eye creams, masks, second serums. None of them is a waste of money once the four above are in place. All of them are, before.

How to add anything

One product at a time, two weeks apart. If something goes wrong you will know what it was. That single habit prevents most of the trouble people bring to us.

Not sure which active is yours? That is exactly what a consultation is for, and it is cheaper than the shelf of twelve.